Jaume Martorell Mir, 12Tree's Quality Manager and Sales Officer shares his experience with different cocoa crops in Central and South America, and reveals 10 years of valuable lessons on how to achieve cacao excellence.
Could you please tell us more about your experience in the Cocoa Industry?
Cocoa and chocolate have been my passion over the past 10 years of my career. As an agricultural engineer I have been involved in different areas of the cocoa supply chain. This has given me a holistic insight into the cocoa sector. I started in Nicaragua in 2008 when I visited the first cocoa cooperatives in Waslala, on the northern Caribbean coast (Región Autónoma Costa Caribe Norte) and Matiguás, Matagalpa. I supported two cooperatives selling cocoa and other products to international markets. I got to know all about the processes of cocoa production while creating a valuable friendship.
Jaume Martorell and Samuel Von Rutte checking the fermentation process. Jaume is smelling the cocoa mass for quality control.
In 2012, I was hired by the Belgian NGO VECOMA (today RIKOLTO) to develop and launch the programs for small cocoa producers in Nicaragua and Honduras. I became acquainted with Ritter Sport’s work in Nicaragua and later got hired by Ritter Sport to manage their collection center in the north of the country. From 2013 to 2018, while working at Ritter Sport, I met all the cocoa organizations in the country and connected with the entire sector in Central America. I learned a lot about the taste and quality of cocoa as well as logistics and exporting. During these years, Ritter Sport bought cocoa from 3500 small producers organized in about 30 farmer organizations (both associations and cooperatives). Learning about cocoa production in agroforestry systems and post-harvest management lead to opportunity to participate in international forums and conferences. This, in turn, opened more doors to learn more about the international market. This market knowledge allowed me to understand the importance of consistency in terms of quality and standards in the industry.
I started working at 12Tree in 2018 and visited many cocoa farms in Ecuador, Colombia, Costa Rica, Panama and Nicaragua. Now, I am leading the quality control department where my main role is to advise the farms on the improvements needed in order to obtain the best cocoa that meets our clients’ requirements. Another important part of my job is to participate in fairs and build relationships with companies in order to better understand their needs while positioning our cocoa and providing information regarding estates, volumes, quality, standardization, and innovation in our production processes.
You are the Cocoa Quality Manager, what does quality mean to you? How would you define an excellent cocoa?
Quality in this industry is essential. Consistency and customization, based on a good post-harvest, are critical factors for success. Quality goes beyond good taste and safety. It starts with genetics, going through the agricultural production, fermentation and drying, good storage, transport, etc. But it doesn’t stop there. Cocoa must be traceable, it should be certified, and it must be sustainable (with all the implications that derive from this concept).
I would dare to say that it must include the French concept of "terroir": a cocoa with impressive genetics immersed in a landscape, with a cultural and anthropological - historical connotation and inserted in specific environmental conditions (adequate soil, environmental conditions, harvest, etc.).
I have two definitions for excellent cocoa, one focused on the market and the other based on the physical characteristics and taste of the bean. The market-focused definition would be: "An excellent cocoa meets your client's physical and taste specifications, and your client is willing pay you for it". From a more technical point of view, I would define an excellent cocoa as "a bean with an adequate degree of fermentation with a balanced flavor and characteristic notes that reflect the genetics which it belongs to". Additionally, we must also talk about the total quality of the product which also needs to adhere to regulations such as optimal cadmium levels.
Why are genetics so important?
The quality is inherently related to its genetics. Good genetics and an optimal post-harvesting process allow the taste to fully develop and express the characteristics of the beans. For example, Ecuador’s cocoa Nacional has a very characteristic floral aroma, while many criollos (white) have a taste of nuts, and Ghana’s forastero cocoa of has a distinctive chocolate flavor.
It is also important to mention that the roasting of the cocoa is crucial in order to highlight the unique sensory characteristics of each genetic.
You are in contact with the chocolate industry and Bean-to-Bar chocolatiers, how do you evaluate the current cocoa market?
Currently the cocoa market in terms of fine cocoa, small industries and Bean-to-Bar chocolatiers, is a little stagnant. This is mainly due to fears of new restrictions and a decrease in consumption. It should be noted that during the lockdown in Europe, sales of industrial chocolate in supermarkets and online sales have increased but small chocolatiers selling their production in retail distribution channels have been greatly affected by mobility restrictions. Despite the circumstances largely caused by governments´responses to the COVID-19 virus, chocolate consumption increased year by year over the 2019/2020, which has a direct positive effect on cocoa production.
In fact, chocolate consumption is projected to continue to increase every year and therefore also the production of cocoa. According to the latest ICCO report over the projection period 2019/2020 - 2024/2025 world cocoa production is expected to register a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 2.1%. In 2025 the production volume will reach 5.2 million tons.
Likewise, global prices which fell sharply at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic and have since rebounded to around 2,600 USD/ton today (consider putting date here). The projected trend for these prices remains stable with sustained growth. It should be noted that the demand for premium quality cocoa is growing strongly but because it is such a small niche market, the volume still stands at 3-5% of the total volume worldwide. I have also observed that there is a high demand for organic cocoa, especially from the Bean-to-Bar* companies.
Nacional cacao in the fermentation process.
Cocoa from Latin America is highly appreciated by industrial companies of high quality cocoa and by small and medium size chocolate makers, including Bean-to-Bar companies. But it is true that there are growing numbers of other countries with good cocoa doing a very good job with post-harvest, such as the Philippines, Vietnam, Tanzania and India. More and more companies are interested in investing in Latin America or sourcing Latin American cocoa, partially in response to the problems of deforestation and child labor in West Africa. Latin America, which accounts for 18% of worldwide cocoa product, currently faces several challenges for increasing cocoa production including, creating plans and policies which promote resilience to climate change, managing cadmium levels in the beans, and consolidating policies to encourage production and the promotion of cocoa abroad.
Can you tell us about the development of cocoa quality on the farms?
12Tree has acquired different cocoa farms in several cocoa producing countries: Ecuador, Colombia, Guatemala, Dominican Republic and Panama. Our vision in each of the projects, regardless of origin and volumes, is to obtain the best quality cocoa possible to satisfy the market. At the same time, we intend to use technology, qualified personnel, and innovative processes in the operations such as the capture of solar radiation to heat the dryers and the installation of machinery to mechanize the post-harvest in our Rio Lindo project in Ecuador. We believe in the need to adjust post-harvest process which address the specific needs of each project, especially regarding fermentation and drying.
The farms have improved in several aspects:
At Hacienda Limon, Ecuador: Freshly harvested cocoa ready to start the fermantation process.
- More technical fermentation processes with permanent data collection, protocols adjusted to genetics and the specific microclimate conditions of each the farm.
- New drying processes that allow (either mechanized or solar) to manage the acetic acid produced in the fermentation process to obtain a good flavor profile.
- New safe storage processes, with humidity and temperature controls in the storage environment and beans as well as pest management controls.
In addition to all this, hygiene, organization, and training of farm personnel in aspects of quality control, post-harvest, and food safety has been a permanent focus.
What are the main projects you are currently working on?
I am currently focusing on improving bean quality in 12tree´s farms in Ecuador and Guatemala.
The Haciendas Limon and Guantupi are two farms in Ecuador in the regions of Cotopaxi and Los Rios. Between them, there are 260 ha of cocoa Nacional, including the varieties EET95, EET96, EET19, EET45 and EET108. At Hacienda Limón we have a very special variety called SAVORU which is considered a "Heirloom Cacao" by the Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund, an initiative of the Fine Chocolate Industry Association. The cocoa beans from these farms are extremely floral and fruity, with touches of nuts and notes of caramel. This cocoa is very popular amongst reputable chocolatiers such as Pump Street in the UK, Creo Chocolate in the USA or Chapon in France.
We are currently expanding the post-harvesting area. The project is scheduled for 2021 and is comprised of new fermentation and drying areas which includes solar canopies and a high-tech circular dryer to be more efficient throughout the drying process.
What about Guatemala?
Cocoa pod at Finca Chimelb: part of the genetic diversity at the farm.
Finca Chimelb is a farm in Alta Verapaz, Guatemala, with 250 hectares of a mix of trinitarian and criollo varieties, the most outstanding include: ICS95, CAP34, FHIA 706 and 707, as well as CATIE’s R1, R4 and R6. The blend of these genetic materials result in a very fruity cocoa of citrus and banana notes. This cocoa is appreciated by chocolate makers such as Cluizel in France, Loctoa in the United Kingdom, and ICAM in Italy. The latter made a special coating for chocolatiers and pastry chefs.
The fermentation is carried out in large wooden boxes for about 6 to 7 days. The beans are then sun dried. We are currently in the process of installing solar collectors for the heating of circular dryers to support drying quality.
It should be noted that the social and environmental impact of our projects also play a key integral part in the farms´ cacao production. In Ecuador, we have created 45 direct jobs with adequate social benefits, and in Guatemala 123 direct jobs have been created. The protection of natural habitat is important for us and, for example, in Chimelb the farm has more than 2000 ha of primary forest under conservation.
Positive impact seems to be a key factor of your projects. Where do you see Finca Chimelb in 5 years?
I see the farm in the future as a model farm that can deliver to our clients a high quality and sustainable cocoa beans with the parameters of quality that our clients require. Moreover, the farm will be the actor to develop the local area with our partnership with small farmers around the farm, creating a really positive impact.
*= Bean to bar refers to a trade model. It generally indicates that one brand controls every stage, from the purchase of the beans to the creation of the bar.